2026-10-17
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A pre-delivery inspection, or PDI, is the dealer’s final check before your new car is handed over. Your job is to repeat that check slowly before you sign anything. Check the numbers, the paint, the tyres, the fluids, the electronics, and the drive. Sign only when every problem is fixed or written down.
The dealer’s team runs a PDI, but they often do it on a busy day, against a deadline. Cars also travel from the factory, sit in stock yards, and get moved by truck. Scratches, loose parts, and missed items can happen along the way. Here’s the thing: the dealer’s check is a good start, not the final word.
If you followed the booking process from start to finish, this is the last stop before the keys. Think about it: you’ll be the one living with this car, so you should be the one who looks at it with fresh eyes. Plan for 45 minutes to an hour. Bring a torch, a microfibre cloth, a notepad, and your phone, and take photos of anything odd.
Keep the documents from your booking handy, since you’ll match numbers against them. Your invoice, sale certificate, and delivery challan are the papers the car has to agree with.
Start with the chassis number, also called the VIN (vehicle identification number). It’s usually stamped on the body near the windscreen, and often on a plate in the engine bay. Check it against the invoice, the sale certificate (Form 21), and the delivery challan. Then find the engine number and check it the same way.
Here’s why this comes first. Your registration on the Vahan portal runs off these numbers, so one wrong digit can hold up the whole process for weeks. Take a photo of each number so you can compare later.
Look at the body in daylight, with the sun behind you if you can. Check each panel from an angle, not straight on. Scratches, dents, and paint that looks a shade off often show up only when light hits them sideways.
Next, check the gaps between the doors, bonnet, and boot. Uneven gaps can mean a panel was refitted after damage. Look at the glass for chips, and check the headlamps and tail lamps for condensation or cracks.
Ask directly whether any panel was repainted or replaced during transit. A clear “no” is a good answer, and hesitation tells you something too. Some independent inspectors use a paint thickness gauge to find repainting, which is worth knowing about.
Look at all five tyres, including the spare. They should be the same brand and model. A mismatch often means something was swapped in a hurry. The tread should look full, and the sidewalls should have no cuts or bulges.
The date code on the sidewall is a four-digit number. The first two digits show the week, and the last two show the year. A tyre that has sat for a long time is worth asking about, since rubber ages even when the car isn’t driven.
Use a tyre gauge to check the pressure in each tyre and the spare. Pressure can drift after transit and a few days on the lot, so don’t assume it’s right. Also, don’t pump the tyres above the recommended figure hoping for better mileage. The truth is higher tyre pressure doesn’t always help, and it can wear the centre of the tread faster and make the ride harsh.
Open the bonnet and look for wet spots, drips, or fresh paint on bolts. Any of these can point to a repair. Check the engine oil and coolant against their markers, then check the brake fluid and washer fluid too.
Look at the battery terminals as well. They should be tight and clean. A loose terminal is a quick fix, but it can leave you stuck in a car park on day one.
Turn the ignition on without starting the engine. The dashboard warning lights should come on briefly, then go off. A light that stays on is a question for the dealer, and you should get an answer before you drive.
Count the airbags against the variant you chose. The number changes by trim, so don’t assume. Then test the windows, central locking, mirrors, horn, wipers, headlamps, and indicators, one at a time.
Turn the AC (air conditioning) to maximum and check that it blows cold within a few minutes. Connect your phone to the infotainment screen. Then put the car in reverse and check the camera image, since buyers often forget to test it until they need it.
Count the keys. Most cars come with two, and a missing key can be costly to replace. Check the toolkit, jack, spare wheel, owner’s manual, service booklet, and warranty card. Missing items are easy to fix now and hard to chase later.
Next, check every accessory against your order. Ask whether each one is company-fitted or aftermarket, since the warranty coverage can differ. Confirm that the HSRP plates (high-security number plates) are fitted. Then ask whether the FASTag, the electronic toll tag, is fitted and linked to the car. Accessories are usually paid for as part of the deal, so a missing one is money you’ve already spent.
Start the engine, let it settle for a minute, and pull away gently. You don’t need a long warm-up on a modern car, and easy driving in the first few kilometres is usually kinder to the engine than long idling.
Then ask for a drive of five to ten kilometres on a mix of roads. A lap around the showroom won’t tell you much. Brake in a safe spot. The car should stop straight, without pulling to one side or feeling spongy.
Turn the steering from lock to lock and listen for clicks or whines. Shift through the gears, whether the car is manual or automatic, and listen for clunks or hesitation. Check the AC again while moving, and listen for rattles over bumps.
Once you’ve checked everything, sort each issue into one of three buckets. The first is Stop: anything that affects safety, driving, or registration, like a warning light, a wrong number, or a brake problem. The second is Fix in writing: a defect the dealer must repair, with a date and a name on the paper. The third is Note and move on: a small cosmetic mark you can live with, written on the paperwork so it’s on record.
Then don’t sign the delivery challan until every Stop item is fixed. The challan is the note that says you took the car in this condition. Once you sign, the dealer will point to it if you complain later.
If the repair takes time, or the dealer won’t budge, you can still negotiate for a free service, a set of mats, or a small discount. And if a clear defect is refused a fix, you can complain under the Consumer Protection Act, 2019, or reach out to the National Consumer Helpline.
Kavya, a pharmacist in Kochi, went for her PDI with a notebook and her phone. Here’s a worked example with the details kept simple.
Her first look found a fresh paint line on the rear door. A photo taken from an angle made it obvious. Then she noticed the spare tyre was from a different brand than the other four. The reverse camera showed a blank screen, and the battery terminal was loose.
She sorted them quickly. The door and the camera went into Stop, because she’d bought the car for safety and parking. The mismatched tyre went into Fix in writing. The loose terminal got tightened on the spot, so it didn’t need paperwork. A tiny scuff under the sill went into Note and move on.
Kavya didn’t sign. She sent the list with photos to the sales manager that same afternoon. Within a few days, the dealer replaced the rear door panel, fixed the camera connector, and swapped the tyre. She came back for a short re-check, found everything right, and signed the delivery challan then.
The door was the big one. If she’d signed at the desk, the argument would have been about whether the damage happened before or after handover. Her photos and written list turned a possible fight into a routine repair.
A PDI is a set of checks the dealer runs before handing over a new car. It covers the body, fluids, electronics, accessories, and a short drive. It doesn’t replace your own check.
Most manufacturers expect dealers to complete a PDI before the sale, and each brand sets its own checklist. Ask the dealer what they checked and whether they can show you the report.
It depends on the dealer. Some include it in the price, while others list a separate PDI or handling charge. If you see that line on your quote, ask what it covers.
The dealer’s PDI can take an hour or more. Your own check should take 45 minutes to an hour, plus the test drive.
Yes. You’re the second pair of eyes, and you’re the only one who’ll live with the car.
Yes. You don’t have to sign the delivery challan or take the car until the Stop items are fixed. Ask for the repairs in writing, with a date.
No. A PDI is a normal part of the sale and doesn’t cancel the warranty. Check the warranty card for when your coverage starts.
A PDI happens before you get the car, and it checks that the car is ready to go. The first service happens after you’ve driven it for a set number of kilometres or months. It covers oil, filters, and wear checks.
Yes. Independent inspection services operate in many Indian cities, and some bring tools like a paint thickness gauge. But you still need your own walk-round and test drive, because you’re the one who knows what matters to you.
Note it in writing, email the dealer with photos, and ask for a warranty repair. If a clear defect is refused a fix, you can raise a complaint under the Consumer Protection Act, 2019, or contact the National Consumer Helpline.
The chassis and engine numbers should match on the invoice, sale certificate (Form 21), delivery challan, and insurance policy. The warranty card and owner’s manual should match the same model and variant.
A good PDI isn’t about being difficult. It’s about making sure the car you take home matches the paperwork and the quote. Give it an hour, take photos, and don’t sign until the list is clean. Warranty terms and consumer rights can differ by brand and situation, so confirm the details with the dealer or manufacturer in writing.
